Silicone-free sunscreen: a trend that does not guarantee better protection

Silicone-free sunscreens are gaining traction in beauty searches. The Beauty Trend Tracker, published on September 11 by Vogue Business in collaboration with Spate, identifies “silicone-free sunscreen” as one of the emerging skincare dynamics. However, this designation reflects a formulation preference rather than the level of protection against ultraviolet rays.

To evaluate a sunscreen, key indicators remain elsewhere on the label. The FDA recommends looking for broad-spectrum protection, which covers both UVA and UVB rays, as well as the SPF rating. The American Academy of Dermatology advises using a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and a water-resistant formula when sweating or swimming.

This point is also relevant for brown and black skin. The World Health Organization reminds us that skin cancers can also affect people with darker skin, even though the risk of sunburn and certain cancers is higher in lighter skin. On darker skin, exposure to sunlight and visible light can also enhance certain pigmentation spots.

To minimize the white cast, the AAD particularly recommends tinted sunscreens that can blend into the skin tone. When they contain iron oxides, they also provide protection against some visible light, which is beneficial for individuals prone to spots. The choice of a formula with or without silicone can then be made based on texture, comfort, and tolerance, without confusing it with sun efficacy.

In a warm climate, the product’s wearability is as important as its finish. A pleasant formula that is applied too sparingly or infrequently does not provide the promised protection. In cases of significant sweating, the “water-resistant” label and reapplication instructions become particularly useful.

The AAD recommends applying sunscreen about fifteen minutes before going outside, covering all exposed areas, and reapplying every two hours and after swimming or heavy sweating. The WHO also advises using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30, in addition to seeking shade, wearing protective clothing, and a wide-brimmed hat.